Here the grass IS greener
(photos to come)
02.05.2009 - 06.05.2009
10 °C
So, Ireland. Very fuckin' cool. Very wet, very cold. With that sort of weather you can't feel too guilty about spending a lot of time in one of the many, many warm & inviting bars. There seems to be, within Dublin, a bar every 20 meters or so. Those that know me will know that I have the tendency to exaggerate @ times but I can assure you, a bar every 20 meters is NO exaggeration (over 1,000 pubs in Dublin alone, in excess of 12,000 in the country).
Got into Dublin airport @ about 19.00 and jumped on the bus Bridgette suggested for a 60 min trip into the city centre. Could have taken a more direct bus but I figured this way I'd get to see a little bit of the Irish burbs.
As I got closer to Dublin I saw more and more people in either all blue or all red. Turns out there was a rugby semi-final played between two local teams, Munster & Lester. Lester, the underdogs, got up. Getting off the bus, in the centre of town, to meet Bridgette I was surprised that considering all the drunken rugby heads the vibe was very chilled, very friendly. The English, soccer heads could learn a lot.
Turns out that my SIM doesn't work over here, no roaming, so I was initially unable to contact Bridge to find her. After a few stressful minutes and emails, which did still work from my phone, I received a mail from her suggesting I head to Grogans Bar. Here we go. Settled in @ the very busy Grogans for my first, of what was to be many, Guinness. As someone who doesn't usually like Guinness let me just say that it's a completely different drink here, in its country of origin. Stayed @ Grogans for another couple of pints before moving off to find somewhere a little quieter. Not so easy considering all the rugby fans out for the night. Given Bridgette’s extensive pub knowledge we were successful. Ended up @ a place called ?????, t'was ok but not one of the more memorable places. From here we moved on to a place called The Palace, downstairs a nightclub, upstairs a pool hall. Francis, a mate of Bridgette’s, a lovely lass, about 5 foot & judging by this evening could out drink most Aussie bloke I know, gave the door man the signal, a finger pointing up, and up we go, no queuing, to the pool room. Open till the wee hours this ended up as our last Guinness stop. Met a guy here named Ed, turns out he worked for about 5 years @ what is now The Pinnacle on St. Georges Rd, North Fitzroy. He had an old card in his wallet, ah home sickness. Having drank @ the Empress during this time we worked out that it was very likely that I'd served him back in Oz. As the names started flying it turns out he knows Dennis quite well. It seems that old dealer man Dennis has always been a part of the furniture @ the ex post office. Filled to the brim with the great tasting black stuff we wandered home via Rays American Pizza. American style slices of Pepperoni covered in chilli, yum and, surprisingly, very filling. One slice the equivalent of 2 or 3 Aussie slices. Fold him in half & devour. A quick cup of tea back @ Bridgette’s & then bed.
11.00 wake up on the Sunday, a great fry up &, magically, no hangover. Bridgette & Keith were to move into a new 'gaff' today, leaving me Bridges old place to myself for the rest of the time here, so we loaded up a couple of cars with Bridgette’s things & drove a full 8 minutes (seems most things in Dublin are no more than 15 minutes away) to St. Kevin’s Church, now apartments. Unloaded & then I buggered off to explore Dublin.
Started my exploration with Francis' guidance. She directed me to St. Stephens Green which I wandered through on my way to a tobacconist new Trinity College & O'Connel St, the main road through Dublin. Comforted by the acquisition of tobacco I set off @ a leisurely pace down O'Connel St towards a huge metal spire, no historical value, purely art. On my travels I crossed the River Liffey. The bridge for this crossing is about 2.5 times wider than it is long. Upon crossing I was on the dreaded northside. Full of junkies, gypsies and bogans or ????? as they are known here. I felt right @ home. Having been warned not to go further north than Henry St I turned left here and found myself in the street market area of town, alas by this time everyone was packed up. Also in this area of town there was an abundance of, not only pubs as is usual here, but sex shops. Again, I'm in my element ha, ha, ha. After seeing more gimp suits than even I felt comfortable about I needed to have a leek. All bars have very clear signs that 'toilet facilities are for customers only' oh well, much to my disgust, it was time for another Guinness. I'm not one to break the rules after all. The obligatory pint had it was time to find my way to Hogans, around the corner from Grogans, on the same block as Brogans. No wonder bogans need a different title here.
The plan for the evening is to end up @ Whelans to see an Irish cowboy slide guitarist. Turns out he was doing an afternoon set @ Hogans so by the time Bridge & Keith arrived I'd already seen most of his set. We had a couple @ Hogans, the Guinness here though wasn't great, a little bitter & head out for a meal. A really cool little eatery named where all the furniture, Keith pointed out, had been collected from tips. Nothing matching and menus printed on A4 and stuck in old magazines, mine was 'Engineers Monthly' from 1987, Keith’s was the same publication from '97 (the price had gone from 70p to €1.50). Traditional Irish meals, I was told, I had Ray wing with mash & cabbage (I think the cabbage & potato constituted traditional Irish) t'was very tasty.
From here the night gets a little hazy. First stop was The Stags Head. Built before white settlement in Australia it's a traditional Irish pub, as opposed to an Australian traditional Irish pub, & has a huge stags head hung over the bar. Hallucinogenic not recommended. After a pint or two here we took off for Whelans. This one, I have to say, was my favourite of all the bars we went to. A live music venue with a very Melbourne feel. The smoking area, upstairs & partially enclosed, looked like some portions of the large bluestone buildings roof had simply been removed. We saw Mr. McSlide Cowboy do his thing, considerably more drunkenly than @ Hogans, & had a brief chat with him afterward. I was approached by a slightly mad Irish woman with the lines 'Are you single?', Yes, 'Are you worth kissing?', No. Why hadn't I thought of that? Oh, that's right, it didn't work.
From Whelans we moved onto The Village, a rock karaoke venue where I found myself, initially to sober to sing, then after registering, far too drunk to. I will end the description of this night, here, with this one word...Jagermiester.
If I was blessed on Sunday morning by waking up without a hangover I was doing my penance now, on Monday. With Bridgette & Keith unpacking & setting up the new house I spent the day laying low, well as low as the mattress @ Bridgette’s old place.
Having gotten the new house sorted Bridgette came round to wake me from my afternoon kip @ about 17.00. Over to Tescos to get some groceries for dinner then back to St. Kevin’s for Bolognese by chef Dan. T'was quite nice if I do say so myself, definitely on par with the Swedish Bolognese from the London hostel. Sat back a relaxed after dinner with cheesecake & red wine before heading off to yet another bar, ?????.
Not bad. A cool vibe, DJ but bad Guinness (I'm starting to be able to tell the difference, Stags Head has been the best). Francis came along & we were soon joined by her housemate, Debbie. Hailing from Galway she is another fine example of Irish folk, very friendly & full of national pride that shows itself in a great knowledge & willingness to educate in the ways of national history. As well as passing on the advice that dry roasted peanuts and Guinness go hand in hand, uh-ha. Given my morning hangover I decided not to push my luck, drank slowly & by the time the bar closed I was polishing off pint number 4. Having booked a day trip to Wicklow Mountains for the next day it was home for a relatively early night. Along the way, inspired by Francis, I stopped for an Indian take away. Not as good as that first one in the UK, back in Dalston, but you takes what you can get @ 1.00.
Tuesday morning, up @ 8.30 ish, & out the door, slightly rushed, by 8.45. I was getting picked up from St. Stephens Green @ 9.25 so, after a brisk walk and no coffee I arrived @ my pickup point with 5 min to spare. The bus was a little late & I was just getting nervous that I'd missed it when Martin, our driver & guide, arrived. 'You were getting worried', turns out I'm transparent, even over here.
On the bus, heading out of Dublin, we had a number of embassies pointed out as well as a house, with 2 acres of gardens that had recently been sold for €48,000,000. Bought by a property developer the plan is to build apartments on the garden space...fucker. A very informative & picturesque day we stopped @ a couple of places; Bulloch Harbour in Dalkey, Laragh for a coffee, drove through Annamo, home to Daniel Day Lewis & William Hurt before carrying on to glendeloch, the valley of the two lakes, where we got out to take a look around.
The remains of a monastery, dating back to 800AD surrounded by countless grave sites awaited us. From there we were sent off on our own to checkout both the lower & upper lakes. I took a quick walk also up a mountain trail to take a quick look @ the waterfall that feeds the upper lake. Waterfall & a quick taste of the water before heading back to the bus. The water, fresh from the mountains was the nicest H2O I've ever tasted. Very cold, very clean, very refreshing. Next was our lunch stop, Beef Guinness stew & a pint for me, could I have had anything else? Lasagne? In a small Irish village? I think not.
Having filled our bellies we were away on the last leg of our journey, along Military Rd, built by the English military in 1800 to allow them access to the Wicklow Mts., a haven for Irish outlaws. To this day it's the only way in or out of the Wicklow National Park, 1 of 5 national parks in Ireland. On the way into the park I was surprised to see how much of the forest had, & was still, being logged. Martin pointed out that as the introduced species of trees were being cleared, natives were being planted in their place. Apparently Irish is 9% forested, the European average is 17%. The Irish government has started paying farmers to grow indigenous trees in an attempt to raise this figure.
Deeper into the national park we passed a large area of Peat Bogs & it was explained to us that it was this, not pollution, that gives the water in this area its brown-ish colour. We stopped along the way by a large, although larger in wetter times, waterfall. The colour of the liquid becoming more obvious to us here.
The next couple of stops were for photo opportunities of Guinness Lake. On one of these stops the stream of brown water, feeding the lake, was accessible from the road so, yes, I had a taste. Not as good as earlier. A little smoky, earthy. Basically it tasted like dirt.
These being our last stop it's back to Dublin with us. Seems a good time to write the blog of my time, so far, in Ireland. What do you know, that's exactly what I'm doing, to a very Irish soundtrack.
Think I'll get off @ Trinity & have a little walk around. Supposedly quite nice. I took a lot of video of Wicklow trip & I'll get it on YouTube as soon as I can find some editing availability.
Did get to Trinity for a wander, lasted about 20 min before err, bored. All those educated rich kids. I just wanted to run around giving people wedgies, explains I suppose my inability to tackle university. Small things, small minds.
After a long, productive day, with my time in Ireland running short the next stop had to be the public library, nuh, just fuckin' with you. I suggested to Bridge that I would meet her @ Whelans but, after advising me that it would be closed she mailed me with an alternative, & another, & another, & another. Spoilt for choice I decided on her second last suggestion; The Hairy Lemon, sounds a little like a lesbian bar to me but given my addiction to everything lemon (cordial, tart, slice, lesbians) & my, what was it? Oh yeah, ample amount of body hair, I figured it was appropriate. Couldn't find the bloody place. Apparently on the correct street I was sent from one end of the thoroughfare to the other as everyone thought it was 'down the other end, on the right'.
Fuck it, I was thirsty & really keen to empty the bladder. The last recommendation was Kehoe's & I, vaguely, knew where it was. Great old pub, originally licensed in 1803, renovated late in the 19th century. Boasting customers the likes of P.J. Kavanagh & Myles na gCopaleen, I was inspired to pull out my trusty notepad & continue a piece of writing I've been working on, bit wanky but, hey, it is me after all. Just to prove that fact, no pen. Oh well, time for a spot of reading, Paulo Coelho's 'The Pilgrimage', apt no? Given my trip to Trinity & the dudes that had, in times gone by, imbibed here I had to @ least attempt to have a little class.
As I started my first page I felt a disturbance in the force, an energy I'd not felt since... She smelt good, felt good (energy wise) but what did this creature standing next to me look like? Crafty, like a fox, I used the mirror lining the back of the bar, employing a slight lean to improve the angle & presto, the face; growl!
Not a man to find himself intimidated but spunky examples of the fairer sex (pff, yeah right) I seized the opportunity. There was a strange looking drink in front of her, steaming, a faint aroma of whiskey and lemon pierced by cloves. A hot tottie perhaps? 'Oh, what is that?' the question, safe enough. The action of turning my head to look her in the eyes, fatal. Now, I'm not suggesting that my heart stopped beating, my brain haemorrhaged or I suffered instantaneous, internal combustion but with a raised pulse and scattered thoughts it certainly seemed to have gotten warmer in Ireland. Then with the simple phrase 'Hot Whiskey' any pure, innocent sensibilities I contain (I can hear those of you who know me well enough laughing @ that last bit, stop it...you're ruining it) were well beyond even the aid of the defibulator. As she walked away, after a little small talk, 'Where you from?', 'How long in Ireland?', etc. I returned, rather flushed & grinning widely to my book. Before I could get my dazzled eyes to focus back on the page she had returned to invite me to join her table, 'Ah...well, yeah...sure'. I couldn't stuff my bits & pieces back into my bag quick enough.
In the booth housing the table she was sitting @ I was greeted with a smile, handshakes and introductions. Podge & Niamh, pronounced Podge & Neev, yeah I would never have gotten that either. As the conversation turned to footy, AFL & Gaelic, I knew the evening was going to be a goddun. Niamh, as it turns out is just as lovely as she is LOVELY & Podge a cool guy, programmers (grouse, she's a nerd as well). We were soon joined by a few more of the programmer gang; Sheila, Sarah & Ayden (sorry if I got any of these names wrong or incorrectly spelt, I'm a bit shit like that). As lovely as I found all the Irish, this crew definitely included, I was feeling a little intimidated, if not outnumbered. Enter Bridgette, yay. Keith arrived not long afterwards & after the initial joining of conversation it seemed, as shop talk & the rundown of my Witlow trip kicked off the tables seemed to split. Oh! By our last pint, however, I was fortunate enough to find myself within chatting distance of Niamh. Grouse! With her number (& name spelling) safely tucked in my phone & tentative plans to catch up later we all said our good-byes & Keith, Bridge & I went for pizza.
Text tennis ensued, dinner was very nice but now I was distracted. We continued on to 'the pub with no name' with ?????, a musician (pianist) friend of Keith’s that I met over dinner (I hate to sound repetitive but every new face seemed to reaffirm & then increase my opinion of the Irish). Just as they were closing Niamh joined us & we moved then, minus ?????, to ????? for the long haul.
At close Keith & Bridge went there way, Niamh & I for a burger and a (quieter) chat. I talked to much, SAID to much but in the end we spent, in my opinion @ least, a nice night hanging out, don't think I scared her too much (although after this blog entry(?)). Morning, however, as is its want, whenever it definitely isn't yours, was determined to break. In the, not so stupidly wee hours of the morning, but early enough, I saw her to a taxi, determined to return to Ireland soon.
Now back for an hour sleep before getting my shit together to first, meet Bridge @ midday and then head into the airport.
My last, best memory (this time) of Ireland was definitely a crepe & coffee lunch with the lovely woman who made this trip possible in the first place; Bridgette McManus, thanks for everything.
Posted by Dan Turner 12.05.2009 16:12 Archived in Ireland Comments (0)

